Sabyasachi Mukherjee made his much-awaited return to New York Fashion Week on September 15, almost 18 years after his previous show in New York in 2009. The Kolkata-born designer presented his latest Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled Bengal Byzantine Broadway, bringing Indian craftsmanship into a distinctly New York setting.
Supermodel Christy Turlington opened the runway, wearing a layered denim look paired with an elaborate Sabyasachi jewellery piece. Her appearance added another connection to the designer’s history, as she had previously participated in his 25th-anniversary retrospective in Mumbai in 2025.
The collection itself moved away from the bridal and heavily traditional silhouettes often associated with the Sabyasachi label. Instead, the 72 looks featured blue jeans, denim vests, plaid shirts, tailored jackets, cowboy hats and relaxed Western-inspired pieces, with Indian handcraft appearing through embroidery, hand-beading, quilted details and statement accessories.
Jewellery played a particularly important role in the presentation. The show marked the runway debut of Sabyasachi’s high-jewellery collaboration with The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met). The pieces drew inspiration from historical artistic traditions, including Byzantine, Roman, Greek and Islamic influences, and were reinterpreted through large gold forms and colourful gemstones.
One of the standout pieces worn by Turlington was the Pantokrator pendant necklace, crafted in 18- and 22-karat gold and featuring a combination of colourful gemstones. The dramatic jewellery contrasted with the relatively understated denim styling, becoming one of the defining visual elements of the opening look.
Sabyasachi described the collection as a meeting point between Americana and Indian craftsmanship. Rather than relying exclusively on conventional Indian fashion symbols, the designer used Western wardrobe staples as a canvas for Indian embroidery and artisanal techniques. The collection also included a closing black saree paired with the label’s signature tiger belt and statement cuffs.
The show also attracted familiar faces from Indian cinema and fashion. Rani Mukerji attended the event in a black saree, while actor Poorna Jagannathan, stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania and designer Prabal Gurung were also among those associated with the presentation. Mukerji has maintained a long professional relationship with Sabyasachi and has previously collaborated with him on several projects.
Sabyasachi’s return to New York comes after several years of international expansion for his label. The brand opened its New York flagship in 2022 and has continued to build its presence in the US through fashion, jewellery and accessories. The latest NYFW presentation further places Indian craftsmanship within a global luxury-fashion context.
